Press Democrat: March 16, 2003

An excerpt from The Press Democcrat

by Jeff Cox

"Despite the name of the place, patrons neither fast nor pay penance at Santi (Italian for "saints") in Geyserville. This place is all about pure, sensual pleasure... "Any idolatry at Santi should be reserved for organoleptic masterpieces like the duck crepes and tagliatelle arrabbiata. I'll admit that I'm usually not a fan of bean soup because of its pasty texture and obvious flavors, but Santi's cranberry bean soup seduced me into finishing every drop...

"Service could hardly have been more professional. My waiter took care to organize things exactly as I asked, and even the busboy was quick to respond to my request to identify the greens in the bean soup. Dishes came out promptly, the food was hot and obviously just off the stove or out of the oven, and finished plates were whisked away as soon as I set them aside...

"The wine list is great fun, containing as it does so many Italian as well as California wines. It's rare to find Tom Dehlinger's Estate Pinot Noir on a restaurant menu, but here is the 1999 for $86. Another stellar Pinot is the 1999 Dutton-Goldfield "Freestone Hill Vineyard" for $93.

"Less empyrean in price but darn good wine nevertheless is the 1999 Dry Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon for $41. I went Italian, ordering the 1999 Poliziano Montepulciano for $47, and was well pleased by it."